Centre Shot question

[tak160]

I was shooting today and was shooting at 40yards all night with 2 bareshafts at each end. They were actually ending up in the group which i was happy about. However the bareshafts were still landing at an angle but more randomised (in terms of angles)...so i'm not sure what's going on. It does seem like the backs moving frantically but the point is still going straight.
Besides the walkback tune, is there no other tuning method to tune the centre shot and tension of the button? I was always under the impression that bareshaft tuning is mainly to tune the arrow to the bow and to find the nocking point. Some people are saying that you can stiffen or weaken an arrow spine using the tension on the button, but then wouldn't that mean the arrow won't leave the bow straight either (so the arrows deviate from the centre as you change distances) and thus affect walkback?

[Gedski]

Try googling James Park and give his method a go, far easier and more consistant than 'fiddling'.

[Jerry Tee]

Originally Posted by DenzilS

Not necessarily. Bareshaft only gives you a tuning point that works at one distance, so you could adjust either centre shot or spring and get apparently good tuning. It won't be far off either way, and will be good enough for most newer archers, but walkback may tell you you need to adjust both CS and spring. If it is hard to tell from the walkback pattern what needs adjusting, then adjust one thing first until you get a clearer slope or curve pattern, then adjust the other.

That has not been my experience in the past. A bare shaft tune should align the nodes of the arrow with the direction of travel of the arrow by first altering the draw weight of the bow and then fine tuning with button spring adjustment. Once this is done the nodes of the arrow will stay aligned with the direction of travel no matter what distance the arrow travels.

[Jerry Tee]

Originally Posted by tak160

I was shooting today and was shooting at 40yards all night with 2 bareshafts at each end. They were actually ending up in the group which i was happy about. However the bareshafts were still landing at an angle but more randomised (in terms of angles)...so i'm not sure what's going on. It does seem like the backs moving frantically but the point is still going straight.
Besides the walkback tune, is there no other tuning method to tune the centre shot and tension of the button? I was always under the impression that bareshaft tuning is mainly to tune the arrow to the bow and to find the nocking point. Some people are saying that you can stiffen or weaken an arrow spine using the tension on the button, but then wouldn't that mean the arrow won't leave the bow straight either (so the arrows deviate from the centre as you change distances) and thus affect walkback?

Download and read the Easton tuning guide, If anyone knows more about arrows than Easton I don't know who they are. http://www.archery-engineering.co.za...ning_guide.pdf

[Whitehart]

Originally Posted by tak160

I was shooting today and was shooting at 40yards all night with 2 bareshafts at each end. They were actually ending up in the group which i was happy about. However the bareshafts were still landing at an angle but more randomised (in terms of angles)...so i'm not sure what's going on. It does seem like the backs moving frantically but the point is still going straight.
Besides the walkback tune, is there no other tuning method to tune the centre shot and tension of the button? I was always under the impression that bareshaft tuning is mainly to tune the arrow to the bow and to find the nocking point. Some people are saying that you can stiffen or weaken an arrow spine using the tension on the button, but then wouldn't that mean the arrow won't leave the bow straight either (so the arrows deviate from the centre as you change distances) and thus affect walkback?

Compared to our inconsistancies the button does very little other than act as a bit of a shock absorber for really bad shots (so for some it works on overtime ) and set the centreshot. Spring tension does not change the spine of the shaft.

Gtek in Bow Int suggests quite a simple set up and with regards to spring tension suggests just stiff enough to stop it depressing when under the clicker. But then again he also assumes you have the correct shaft spine which is the key to any bow tuning.

Do you put tape on the back of the shaft to balance the FOC?

[Shirt]

Originally Posted by JohnR

I coach a young archer who has the pile of the arrow inside the string. Everytime we re-tune I start with half a pile outside, and after bareshaft at different distances and checking group sizes, it always comes back to just inside the string. I can't explain that - can anybody? But it doesn't worry me, and it doesn't worry him, so no problem.

I can't explain it, but I shot all season last year with my centreshot inside the string. This year it needs to be outside; not sure why, but it definitely has to be outside...

[geoffretired]

Originally Posted by Shirt

not sure why, but it definitely has to be outside...

Bit like the fashion for shirt tails.

[tak160]

I have actually downloaded the Easton tuning guide a while ago and read the tuning bit. It just tells you to tune with bareshafts which is what I have been doing, then it goes into paper tuning and broadhead tuning. This guides also one of the guides which says changing the tension on the spring will stiffen or weaken the spine. The guide suggests that so long as it impacts in the centre of the group, all should be fine. It does seem like my problem's fishtailing though, even though they're impacting the centre of my groups.

I was tempted by the James Park method a while ago, but I'm not sure whether I want to detune everything and retune again now seeing as I have a competition in a weeks time. I was just hoping for a small fix.
I haven't tried putting tape on the back of my bareshafts. I didn't think they would make much of a difference because my point weights are 120gn and the fletchings are very light so i didn't think the FOC would change that much.

[Rik]

Originally Posted by DenzilS

Bareshaft tuning won't tell you whether to adjust the button pressure or the centreshot position. That is what walkback does.

Nope. That's an ancient myth. Centreshot and button pressure are inter-related. You can arrive at the same setup by (for example) moving the button further out from the bow and decreasing the button tension. Walkback patterns don't tell you anything much apart from "the arrow isnt leaving straight".
But don't take my word for it.... try it and see.

[swift]

to day I went down to our feild to tune the bow again. shooting at 50 mtrs I was or seemed to be pulling to the right and was also running out of sight pin so after messing about for a while I managed to zone in on the middle. I then thought Id try some bare shafts and was suprised to see the first 3 go in the middle (still on 50m) and the last 3 went red.blue left 9 oclock so question is how would I go about bringing them all together.

[greygoose]

Originally Posted by swift

to day I went down to our feild to tune the bow again. shooting at 50 mtrs I was or seemed to be pulling to the right and was also running out of sight pin so after messing about for a while I managed to zone in on the middle. I then thought Id try some bare shafts and was suprised to see the first 3 go in the middle (still on 50m) and the last 3 went red.blue left 9 oclock so question is how would I go about bringing them all together.

Hi Swift,
I think that an arrow spread pattern, rather than a tight group, is most likely down to a shooting rather than a tuning issue.
This is of course unless your setup is wrong to the extent that arrows are contacting some part of the the bow on their way past.
Greygoose

[swift]

hi im not sure what you mean with spread patern is this some thing mabe nock tuning could fix or do you think its down to the archer. all help welcome
cheers scotty

[Cimbian]

Originally Posted by swift

hi im not sure what you mean with spread patern is this some thing mabe nock tuning could fix or do you think its down to the archer. all help welcome
cheers scotty

If your form is good enough then try nock-tuning... You may be surprised at the result!

If no change (which is unlikely) then at least you have eliminated a simple variable.

[patrick dwyer]

hi ther i set my centre shot with the tip of the arrow 1/8 to the left of the string so looking down the arrow the tip should be 1/8 between tip and string i find this to be ok for me thus this help you in anyway.

[tak160]

Originally Posted by patrick dwyer

hi ther i set my centre shot with the tip of the arrow 1/8 to the left of the string so looking down the arrow the tip should be 1/8 between tip and string i find this to be ok for me thus this help you in anyway.

Thanks. I think I got it all sorted now. I moved my centre shot by a quater of a turn (moving the tip right) and now the bareshafts are straight.

One issue I want to ask which isn't actually related to the centre shot but my bow string. The serving on one of the loops (the y bit before the loop actually) has broken and is unravelling. Is the string ok to shoot? The string's only 2 months old.
I actually foresaw a problem with the string a while ago when the bracing height would decrease during the course of shooting and got a new one from Quicks (8125 large groove)...but for some reason, neither the small or large grove Easton G nocks fit well on it. The large fits better but has a lot of movement in it. If it doesn't seat properly, I fear it might mean I can't use the clicker properly. I have a competition on Saturday so unless the old string is ok, I will have to use the new string, but I don't really want to be retuning so close to the event.