Weight matching arrows?

[The Meggy]

Sometimes carbon-ali arrow shafts can end up with some weight differences in a set over time due to wear, or a new set can be a slightly different weight to an older one, despite being the same specs. I'm just wondering if anyone has any suggestions as to the best way of adding weight to arrows to match things up. I have tried the following with some old ACC's: I cut up little chips of hotmelt, added the required amount to the arrows concerned, then stood them points down in boiling water for a few minutes to melt the hotmelt. Result: the hotmelt kind of adhered slightly, but did not really melt. On shooting the arrows, the little chips came loose again and started rattling about inside the shafts. So back to square one... any ideas folks? Cheers!

[T101]

a solution to this would b very useful, filing down the points of the heavier shafts springs to mind, but if it was more than 2 or 3 grains may b no good. bought 1 new arrow this season and its grouping lower, its about 4 or 5 grains heavier than my lightest one.

with regard to the hotmelt idea, maybe direct heat on the point to create a stronger bond, wether it will ever b strong enough though i dunno.


u can however put solder in acc type points with hollow shank.

[COOLHAND]

With new shafts I always weigh the nocked and fletched arrows (hopefully within a grain or two) and lay them out left to right starting with the lightest and working up to the heaviest. I then weigh the piles and put the heaviest pile in the lightest shaft. This works well if there isn't too much variation.

[T101]

yes when new, but i think he means after some varying wear and tear has occured. points r generally with 1g IME anyway.

[Chase Archer]

Originally Posted by T101

yes when new, but i think he means after some varying wear and tear has occured.

Wouldn't it work the same though? Ok the points would have to be removed to do the exercise but that's not the end of the world.

[Hidden Hippo]

This isn't a solution to the problem, but I was chatting to another archer last week about the effect of a varied weight.

Given the mass of one of my X10s is around 330gr, a difference of 1gr is less than 0.33%. I know for one that I can't manage to shoot with a 0.33% consistency in my shot. I'd argue that in reality, a lot of pressure is put on making arrows exactly the same, but for the majority of archers, it is likely not going to make a blind bit of difference. For instance, a 0.33% variation on a 1400 score is approximately 4 points. Given that even a 1400 shooter does not have that level of consistency, I'd argue that the change doesn't make a real difference.

[T101]

i've found that 1-3 grains makes no noticable difference @90m, 4-5g however means about 2-4" difference.

[not dead yet]

Originally Posted by T101

i've found that 1-3 grains makes no noticable difference @90m, 4-5g however means about 2-4" difference.

simple answer to this whole thread is.....if you that competetive, why you fiddlin about .buy a new set of arrows.

T101 did i read you bought one arrow...

thats like fitting one brake pad on your car.
it pulls to the left when braking hard but there's plenty of wear left in the other 3 pads....

think man think.

pete xx

[T101]

doesn't matter how much i think, my wallet doesn't change.
had 9 good arrows shot at just 7 or 8 comps only, decided just 1 more was enough to see out the season. it groups @ shorter distances so its useable, and i shoot it more than the others in practise to try and wear it down to match.

oh and what r brakes?

[simon m]

Mr Osborn clout specialist supreme once told me 1grn made 1 foot difference at 180 yards.................

so there

[The Meggy]

Originally Posted by T101

i've found that 1-3 grains makes no noticable difference @90m, 4-5g however means about 2-4" difference.

Thank you all for your replies. T101, I would agree certainly that a couple of grains or thereabouts is all but undetectable unless you shoot at a very high standard indeed. Like you I am more concerned with differences of 5 grains or so roughly. NDY is right that a new set of shafts is the best way, but if you have a few of an old set left, it would be nice to get them to the same weight as your newer ones, if only so that you can use them in an emergency. And eventually of course you will lose some of the new set too, plus they will get worn also, and then will be replaced by an even newer set. At this point you may want to combine all your old sets together to make a larger practice set, so why not weight match these?

The hotmelt idea I tried was suggested on Alan Walker's archery website, maybe I was using the wrong type of hotmelt. I read on Archery Forum somewhere that James Park has added weight to an old set simply by putting strips of paper inside the shafts. Maybe I'll have a go at that, although I wonder if the paper moving around inside the arrow would cause some sort of issues? Perhaps some testing is required...

[Saphire]

When you buy your Navigators do you check how many dots and spaces are on the arrow because if they are different on the new set, they could be a few grains different.
I always ask when ordering the same spine that they have same configuration of dots if they don't I go elsewhere until I find the same, because I am pulling light poundage its a massive difference for me if they are different.
On ACC its a letter and number on mine I have two sets of the same spine one has D1 the other D5 I think the D5 is heaver by 5 grains

Unfortunately I can't post a photo in the thread so here is a link the dots on these two are very slightly different so have to alter my sites for each set more so for the longest distance.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2447/...945bcb.jpg?v=0

[T101]

The hotmelt idea I tried was suggested on Alan Walker's archery website, maybe I was using the wrong type of hotmelt. I read on Archery Forum somewhere that James Park has added weight to an old set simply by putting strips of paper inside the shafts. Maybe I'll have a go at that, although I wonder if the paper moving around inside the arrow would cause some sort of issues? Perhaps some testing is required...[/QUOTE]


ahh the paper thing reminded me of something from a while back, people tried putting strips of silver foil in their all carbon arrows so a metal detector would pick em up, but they found that the constant impact after a while made the strips wad up at the point end of the arrow. this may b worth a try. still got the question of will it stay put though.

[not dead yet]

at one stage i had 45 ace 520's.

i tuned them into sets, two tourny sets, different fletchings.
and a practice set ,for use at club and local, westerns etc.
using the practice set for the following indoors...

smashed 8 in a three week period once. thats what you get for shooting single spot portsmouths.....

that was when i had money.lol

got a set of X30 gold tips if you like....you can watch them leave the bow, and slowly trail down the field

[Cimbian]

I weigh the shafts and put them in weight order, say left-to-right. Then I weigh points and put them right-to-left. Generally come in about the same once assembled.