Ultra Elite tiller

BillW · 10-03-10, 05:30 PM

When I wind my ultraelite all the way in, I get a 4mm neg tiller. I was expecting zero tiller . Anybody know if this is usual?
cheers

jimlee · 11-03-10, 07:48 AM

When the limbs are wound fully in the tiller should be level, there is a post about timing the cam/2 system on Hoyts on Archery Talk, here's a link.
Hoyt Draw Stop Timing (Revised) - ArcheryTalk Forum: Target & Bowhunting Chat
It was put up some time ago, but I think it still applies.

Cheers, Jim.

BillW · 11-03-10, 08:28 AM

jimlee thanks, I'll be using the new info and setting up my bow tonight

BillW · 11-03-10, 05:56 PM

tried everything (even dismantled bow and checked pockets) still got 4mm tiller when would fully in.
Help please!

Adam · 11-03-10, 06:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BillW

tried everything (even dismantled bow and checked pockets) still got 4mm tiller when would fully in.
Help please!

What's the problem? Just set it even, or at whatever tiller, positive or otherwise, that you want. I know of some (very good) archers who shoot UE's with slight negative tiller because they find that holds best when aiming. Others shoot even or positive. Really, what you have is no big deal - just put it where you want it, remembering to check the cam timing and nock height when you do so.

Adam

BillW · 11-03-10, 06:43 PM

I know that somtimes a little knowledge is dangerous, (as it probably is with me in this case). My problem is that I can't get zero tiller with when wound all the way in, this worries me as it's the starting point for everything involving setting up the bow.
It was shooting ok before I got 'this bee in my bonnet' but now that i'm aware of the problem I have to try and get to the bottom of it.

Adam · 12-03-10, 08:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BillW

I know that somtimes a little knowledge is dangerous, (as it probably is with me in this case). My problem is that I can't get zero tiller with when wound all the way in, this worries me as it's the starting point for everything involving setting up the bow.
It was shooting ok before I got 'this bee in my bonnet' but now that i'm aware of the problem I have to try and get to the bottom of it.

Sorry BillW, but I just don't understand your problem. The bow will shoot better than you can with positive, even or negative tiller. I also don't understand what you're trying to achieve that requires you to start with the limbs wound all the way it, that you can't achieve with one turn on one limb. I think starting any tuning process with even tiller is what's important. Take my word for it - set it even and go from there. If you're not regularly shooting 1350+ there's really no need to worry about this and, even then, I'd be doubtful. It wouldn't worry me for a single minute. Quit worrying and concentrate on shooting instead.

Adam

niceguy · 12-03-10, 09:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Adam

Sorry BillW, but I just don't understand your problem. The bow will shoot better than you can with positive, even or negative tiller. I also don't understand what you're trying to achieve that requires you to start with the limbs would all the way it, that you can't achieve with one turn on one limb. I think starting any tuning process with even tiller is what's important. Take my word for it - set it even and go from there. If you're not regularly shooting 1350+ there's really no need to worry about this and, even then, I'd be doubtful. It wouldn't worry me for a single minute. Quit worrying and concentrate on shooting instead.

Adam

As Adam has said it really isn't important any more than exact ATA or brace is. Just set the draw weight you want with the tiller even, is doesn't matter if one limb bolt is screwed in 1/4 turn more than the other. Adjusting the tiller only changes the angle of the riser with respect to the limbs, nothing else. The nock point will move a little and may have to be reset.

The Meggy · 12-03-10, 12:25 PM

To be fair to BillW, I too have heard the advice to set bows up by first winding the limbs all the way in, and adjusting from there. I have never bothered to do this though - I just do what Adam suggests i.e. set to an even tiller (in my case) and then add/remove turns on the limb bolts evenly to get the draw weight I want. And FWIW I agree that tiller does not make much difference to the average, or even pretty good, archer.

BillW · 12-03-10, 01:03 PM

Thanks for your help everyone, I'll take your advice and get on with my shooting

10-03-10, 05:30 PM	#1 (permalink)
BillW In the Black Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: UK mostly Posts: 53 Tournaments Joined: 0 Tournaments Won: 0 Downloads: 0 Uploads: 0	Ultra Elite tiller When I wind my ultraelite all the way in, I get a 4mm neg tiller. I was expecting zero tiller . Anybody know if this is usual? cheers Sponsored Links 20 x 60cm Economy Target Faces: £5.00 36 x Plastifletch Arrow Fletchings £3.00

11-03-10, 07:48 AM	#2 (permalink)
jimlee In the Blue Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Dover, Kent Posts: 220 Tournaments Joined: 0 Tournaments Won: 0 Downloads: 4 Uploads: 0	When the limbs are wound fully in the tiller should be level, there is a post about timing the cam/2 system on Hoyts on Archery Talk, here's a link. Hoyt Draw Stop Timing (Revised) - ArcheryTalk Forum: Target & Bowhunting Chat It was put up some time ago, but I think it still applies. Cheers, Jim. __________________ If at first you don't succeed, try, try again, then give up, blame the equipment and have a beer.

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11-03-10, 08:28 AM	#3 (permalink)
BillW In the Black Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: UK mostly Posts: 53 Tournaments Joined: 0 Tournaments Won: 0 Downloads: 0 Uploads: 0	jimlee thanks, I'll be using the new info and setting up my bow tonight

11-03-10, 05:56 PM	#4 (permalink)
BillW In the Black Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: UK mostly Posts: 53 Tournaments Joined: 0 Tournaments Won: 0 Downloads: 0 Uploads: 0	tried everything (even dismantled bow and checked pockets) still got 4mm tiller when would fully in. Help please!

11-03-10, 06:43 PM	#6 (permalink)
BillW In the Black Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: UK mostly Posts: 53 Tournaments Joined: 0 Tournaments Won: 0 Downloads: 0 Uploads: 0	I know that somtimes a little knowledge is dangerous, (as it probably is with me in this case). My problem is that I can't get zero tiller with when wound all the way in, this worries me as it's the starting point for everything involving setting up the bow. It was shooting ok before I got 'this bee in my bonnet' but now that i'm aware of the problem I have to try and get to the bottom of it.

12-03-10, 12:25 PM	#9 (permalink)
The Meggy In the Gold Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Grimsby Posts: 1,037 Tournaments Joined: 0 Tournaments Won: 0 Downloads: 13 Uploads: 0	To be fair to BillW, I too have heard the advice to set bows up by first winding the limbs all the way in, and adjusting from there. I have never bothered to do this though - I just do what Adam suggests i.e. set to an even tiller (in my case) and then add/remove turns on the limb bolts evenly to get the draw weight I want. And FWIW I agree that tiller does not make much difference to the average, or even pretty good, archer.

12-03-10, 01:03 PM	#10 (permalink)
BillW In the Black Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: UK mostly Posts: 53 Tournaments Joined: 0 Tournaments Won: 0 Downloads: 0 Uploads: 0	Thanks for your help everyone, I'll take your advice and get on with my shooting